Mount Manaslu Expedition

Manaslu Expedition


Mount Manaslu Expedition offers a challenging ascent of the world's eighth-highest mountain in the Mansiri Himal section of the Himalayas. In 1956, Toshio Imanishi and Gyaltsen Norbu Sherpa completed this approximately 50-day climb, which required the establishment of four camps and involved navigating avalanche dangers and steep ridges. The name "Manaslu" translates to "intellect" or "soul" in Sanskrit, adding a profound dimension to the expedition. This journey provides an exhilarating odyssey for mountaineers, promising a life-changing adventure amidst the breathtaking Nepalese Himalayas.


Climbers face technical challenges, including steep terrain and unpredictable weather, demanding high skills, endurance, and mental resilience. The ultimate reward is a stunning panorama of the surrounding peaks and the satisfaction of conquering one of the world's most formidable summits. Beyond the physical challenges, the expedition seamlessly blends cultural richness with the raw beauty of the Himalayan landscape, ensuring an unforgettable experience for those seeking the pinnacle of mountaineering challenges.

 

The Mount Manaslu Expedition is an exhilarating and demanding endeavor encompassing the ascent of the eighth-highest peak globally, Mount Manaslu. Located in the Nepalese Himalayas, this majestic mountain reaches an elevation of 8,163 meters (26,781 feet), providing a challenging yet gratifying experience for mountaineers. Essential components of a Manaslu expedition typically include:

Base Camp: The expedition usually begins with the establishment of a base camp, providing a strategic starting point for acclimatization and logistical preparations.


Climbing Routes: 
Climbers can choose from various routes, with the Northeast Face being the standard and most frequently used path. Other routes, such as the Northwest Face, South Face, and East Face, offer different levels of difficulty, requiring diverse skill sets from the mountaineers.


Challenges:
Climbing Mount Manaslu presents a range of challenges, including navigating crevasses, icefalls, and steep slopes. Unpredictable weather conditions and high-altitude factors further intensify the difficulty, demanding physical and mental resilience from expedition members.


Technical Skills:
 Mount Manaslu's diverse terrain requires climbers to possess advanced mountaineering skills, including ice and rock climbing techniques. The expedition often attracts experienced climbers seeking to test their abilities in a high-altitude environment.


Acclimatization:
 Proper acclimatization is a crucial aspect of any Manaslu expedition. Climbers typically establish higher camps to adapt their bodies to the reduced oxygen levels at high altitudes, minimizing the risk of altitude-related illnesses.


Permits and Regulations:
 Like many peaks in the region, Mount Manaslu requires climbers to obtain permits. Expedition teams must adhere to local regulations and guidelines to ensure a safe and environmentally conscious ascent.


Team Dynamics: 
Successful Manaslu Expeditions rely heavily on effective teamwork. Climbers form a close-knit team, supporting each other through the challenges and sharing responsibilities to ensure a safe and coordinated ascent.


Summit Attempt: 
The ultimate goal of a Manaslu Expedition is reaching the summit. As they stand atop the peak and take in the breathtaking panoramic views of the Himalayan landscape, climbers feel a profound sense of accomplishment.


Throughout the expedition, climbers forge indelible memories, surmount personal and collective challenges, and develop a profound appreciation for the mountain environment's raw beauty and formidable power. A Mount Manaslu expedition transcends being solely a physical feat; it is a transformative journey that imparts a lasting impact on those who undertake this adventure.

Mount Manaslu Climbing Routes information


 

Northeast Face (Standard Route):

  • Difficulty: moderate to difficult.
  • Description: The Northeast Face is the standard and most commonly used route for climbing Mount Manaslu. It involves establishing a base camp and then ascending through a series of high camps on the northeast side of the mountain. Climbers navigate through icefalls, crevasses, and steep slopes, facing technical challenges and unpredictable weather conditions.

 

Northwest Face:

  • Difficulty: Very difficult.
  • Description: The Northwest Face presents a more challenging and less frequently used route. Climbers approaching from this side encounter technical ice and mixed terrain. This route demands advanced climbing skills and a thorough understanding of high-altitude mountaineering.

 

South Face:

  • Difficulty: Extremely difficult.
  • Description: The South Face is considered one of the most challenging routes on Mount Manaslu. Climbers attempting this face navigate through complex ice and rock features, encountering steep slopes and potentially hazardous conditions. Due to the high level of difficulty and objective dangers, fewer expeditions opt for this route.

 

East Face:

  • Difficulty: highly technical.
  • Description: The East Face is a technically demanding route, with climbers facing challenging ice and mixed terrain. This less-traveled route requires a high level of skill, experience, and adaptability to handle the various obstacles encountered during the ascent.

 

Climbers and expedition teams must carefully assess the conditions, risks, and technical requirements associated with each route before attempting an ascent on Mount Manaslu. Additionally, obtaining permits and adhering to local regulations are crucial aspects of planning a successful expedition to this majestic peak in the Nepalese Himalayas.

 

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Trip Itinerary

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu

Upon arrival in Kathmandu, you will be greeted by a representative from Manaslu Tours who will transfer you to your hotel. To start your journey on a high note, we will be hosted for a welcome dinner in the evening, featuring authentic Nepalese cuisine and a warm welcome drink.

Day 02: Full day City Tour in Kathmandu Valley

  • SWOYAMBHUNATH, also known as the monkey temple, is climbed by a long set of steps and has great views of Kathmandu.
  • BOUDHANATH STUPA has many traditional Gompas hung with strings of multi-colored prayer flags; it attracts many Sherpas and Tibetans for the circumambulations of the stupa (koras)
  • PASHUPATINATH is a Hindu temple with burning Ghats on the banks of the Bagmati River.
  • KATHMANDU DURBAR SQUARE, which is one of the old capitals of the Kathmandu valley, has a blend of Hindu and Buddhist temples

Day 03: Expedition briefing at Department of Tourism

Day 04: By Private Transportation: Kathmandu - Barpak (1,945m/176km)

After an early departure by private bus to reach Barpak, we follow the Daraudi Khola River, also passing through terraced rice fields. A long climb on a track leads us to Barpak, the main village of the Gurung ethnic group, located on a small plateau overlooking the valley. In front of us stands the snowy face of the Buddha Himal (6672m).

Day 05: Barpak - Laprak (2200m)

First day of trekking: steep climb through a beautiful forest of rhododendrons and pines with stunning views of Barpak and Boudha Himal. Lunch break at Momche dada (2880m) with panoramic views of Himal Chuli, Boudha Himal, Shringgi Himal, and the Ganesh mountain range. Descend towards the surprising "new" village of Laprak, built by the government after the earthquake, consisting of identical uninhabited houses. The original village of Laprak is located lower amidst wheat, barley, and quinoa fields. Laprak is the second largest village of the Gurung ethnic group and spans over 100m of altitude difference.

Day 06: Laprak - Khorla Benshi (975m)

We traverse Laprak's maze of village paths and reach the Jyabru Khola. After crossing a suspension bridge, we ascend steeply and passing terraced fields of pink sorghum. The narrow trail, often obscured, winds around hillsides and leads us to a small chorten below the village of Singla. From here, the hike becomes easier and we are treated to views of the Kutang and Sringi Himal to the north. Our path continues through more terraced fields and papaya trees, through the Gurung village of Khorla, before winding down to Khorlebeshi on the Budhi Gandaki River. Take caution on the rocky steps before the long suspension bridge to Khorlabeshi. Be mindful of local women weaving straw mats in the village. In the evening, we may receive a visit from the village's cultural ambassadors and experience another performance.

Day 07: Khorlabenshi - Jagat (1,370m)

Today, we have a five-hour trek ahead of us. We'll start by walking along the river, surrounded by tobacco and buckwheat fields, and admiring rocks smoothed by the river's flow. Our journey will involve climbing stone steps to reach the hot springs in the terraced village of Tatopani. Here, we can take some time to soak our weary bodies in the hot water and even go for a swim in the nearby icy river. After drying off on the lovely riverside beach, we'll embark on a gentle hike through the woods with a spectacular waterfall. We'll cross an old wooden suspension bridge and continue through a short section of forest path to reach Dovan. Above Dovan, the Budhi Gandaki River presents steep rapids. Our trail will take us high above the river and down through calmer waters. We'll cross the river on a long, new suspension bridge and then climb stone steps to reach our camp below Jagat, the Manaslu Conservation National Park entrance. Before heading to camp, take a moment to wander around the beautiful, paved village of Jagat and admire the pride of the villagers who have recorded their contributions to the paving projects.

Day 08: Jagat - Deng (1,865m)

After descending a series of stone steps from Jagat to the river, we climb up terraced hillsides to the hamlet of Saguleri where we can admire the stunning view of the 7,187 meter high Sringi Himal. We traverse through the picturesque village of Sirdibas and cross the river again on a long suspension bridge at Ghata Khola. The path splits with the right branch leading to the Ganesh Himal. We continue upstream, making a steep climb to reach Philim. We cross the river at a narrow section on a new suspension bridge, and then gradually ascend a wide hillside through an open forest, crossing the river twice more on poorly maintained bridges in the next two hours. The first bridge is at the intersection to the remote Tsum valley leading to Tibet. After trekking through dense woods for over an hour, we pass the chilly campsite of Pewa on the river, and after another hour, we leave the gorge and climb briefly to the village of Deng. Deng is the starting point of the lower Nubri region, Kutang, where the people are ethnically Tibetan but speak a different dialect from the pure Tibetans of upper Nubri. We have views of the Lumbo Himal, Lapuchen, and Dwijen Himals. It's worth visiting the upper floor of a local house for a glass of "chang" (Tibetan beer) and a chat by the hearth.

Day 09: Deng - Ghap (2,165m)

We switchback steeply to the small and impoverished village of Lana, where the women often have their looms set up. After trekking through beautiful pine woods and crossing a small bridge, we reach Bihi Phedi with its good shop and views of the Kutang Himal. We start to see "mani stones" (prayer inscriptions on rocks) which indicate that we are entering one of the small Tibetan communities that dot the high Himalayas. We have three to four hours of trekking ahead of us, crossing the Bhudi Gandaki River twice and smaller tributary streams twice. We will remain mostly high, with many ascents and descents as we move through the gorge, enjoying the spectacular views along the way. Finally, we reach Ghap and set up camp for the night at the house of some friendly villagers.

Day 10: Ghap - Lho (3,180m)

Today's trek is a magnificent adventure. We depart from Ghap and ascend for an hour through a dense, cool forest, crossing the Bhudi Gandaki River via a wooden bridge and climbing smooth stone steps until we reach Namrung, located at an altitude of 2540 meters. As we continue to climb, we enter alpine terrain and are rewarded with sweeping mountain views. Namrung village marks the beginning of Nubri, an area inhabited by Tibetans who speak a western Tibetan dialect. A few hours later, we arrive at Lihi, a village located at 2840 meters above sea level, which houses an ancient gompa and is surrounded by fields of barley guarded by "bear watches". Our trek continues at a gentle pace and we soon cross a large stream flowing from the Lidanda Glaciers to reach the picturesque Tibetan village of Sho, located at 3000 meters, where we stop for lunch. After an hour, we reach Lho, where we are greeted with stunning views of Manaslu.

Day 11: Lho - Samagaon (3,525m)

As we walk through the upper reaches of Lho, with the majestic peaks of Manaslu in the distance, we come across the new gompa and then ascend through a light forest next to a small river to reach the idyllic Tibetan settlement of Shayla, where the villagers are often working in the fields. A few more hours of trekking through classic alpine scenery takes us past Tibetan grazing settlements, with the trail to Pung Gyan Gompa branching off to the left. We eventually reach Sama Gaon, passing through checkered fields of barley and potato. The people of Sama Gaon are descendants of Tibetans who settled here over 500 years ago. The Tibetan villages in this region of Manaslu are characterized by their distinctive entrance gates (manes) and they maintain active trade with their Tibetan co-religionists over several nearby high passes. On a clear weather day, you may see village women weaving wool from Tibet into gowns, which are then traded back to Tibet. Spend the afternoon exploring the old gompa settlement above the town and wandering the streets of the intriguing Samagaon village.

Day 12: Acclimatization day

A day dedicated to acclimatization! We trek up to the Ramanan Kharka cirque (4000m) and get close to the glaciers in the stunning Pugyen Valley. On a clear day, it is an unforgettable experience surrounded by gigantic and majestic peaks like Peak 29, Manaslu, and Himal Chuli. We are in the heart of the Great Himalayas, surrounded by towering mountains that humans rarely venture into. The trail continues as a beautiful balcony towards the Sama plateau, where we settle in a lodge in the heart of the Tibetan village of Samagaon.

Day 13: Samagaon - Manaslu Base Camp (4,850m)

You will trek uphill for around 5 hours and downhill for 3 hours to reach Manaslu Base Camp, starting early in the morning and carrying food and water. The trail from Samagaon goes through a forest and ascends a steep slope to the north of Manaslu glacier, with the final section being the steepest on a slippery trail on a tapered moraine. The base camp site is crowded during peak season with tents, guides, porters and climbers, and you will enjoy panoramic views of surrounding mountains before staying overnight.

Day 14: Rest and Puja Ceremoney

Resting is recommended to prepare mentally and physically for the challenges of Manaslu Mountain. A Puja Ceremony will be organized according to Sherpa ritual to ask for blessings for a successful ascent.

Day 15-26: Rotation of Camps

Frequent attempts to high camps and returning to lower camps is essential for increasing altitude. Slow ascent through steep sections of moraines and glaciers will be done, and four camps will be prepared before climbing to the summit.

Day 27-35: Summit Mt. Manaslu (Climbing Periods for Manaslu)

Base Camp to Camp I

The section of the climb from Base Camp to Camp I involves climbing over rock slabs and moraine, a crevassed glacier with occasional small ice steps, and weaving between seracs. It is the most technical section of the climb and takes between 3-6 hours. The elevation at Base Camp is 4,800m/15,750ft and Camp I is at 5,700m/18,700ft.

Camp I to Camp II

The section of the climb from Camp I to Camp II is considered the technical crux of the climb with some steep sections fixed with ropes and occasionally ladders. Camp II is located at the top of the serac section of the climb on a somewhat flat area safe from danger, but it can receive a lot of snow accumulation. The terrain features long 40-degree snow slopes with a few vertical ice steps that require front-point cramping. Acclimatized climbers can complete this leg in approximately 3-4 hours. The route continues up the upper glacier before increasing in steepness as it approaches Camp III. Camp II is located at an elevation of 6,400m/21,000ft.

Camp II to Camp III

The section of the climb from Camp II to Camp III continues up the upper glacier and becomes steeper as it approaches Camp III. Camp III is located at an elevation of 6,800m/22,310ft and is known for experiencing strong winds, requiring secure tent anchors. This leg of the climb is relatively short, taking between 1.5-3 hours.

Camp III to Camp IV

The section of the climb from Camp III to Camp IV involves strenuous climbing over 550m of elevation gain. The route continues up the remaining glacier, weaving through seracs with some short steep sections of ice and snow that have fixed ropes in place for safety. An exposed traverse with remains of past expeditions in the shape of old abandoned and destroyed tents leads to a high camp, Camp IV, which is located at an elevation of 7,450m/24,445ft. This leg of the climb takes between 4-8 hours.

Camp IV to Manaslu Summit and return back to Base Camp

The climb from Camp IV to the summit of Mt. Manaslu takes 6-7 hours, with the route climbing three separate tiered plateaus before arriving at the final pyramid slope. The true summit is reached with an exposed technical traverse for around 70 meters, and this section needs to have a fixed rope in place. The descent from the summit to Camp IV takes 2-4 hours.

Day 36: Base Camp Clean up and back to Samagaon

First, we need to properly dispose of the garbage we have generated in the Base Camp. We should follow Leave No Trace principles, pack out all non-biodegradable items, and dispose of them appropriately in designated waste management facilities. Biodegradable waste should be buried in a proper manner away from water sources. After disposing of the garbage, we can retrace our route back to Samagaon and stay overnight there.

Day 37: Samagaon - Samdo (3,800m)

A morning visit to the monastery offers the opportunity to hike towards Birendra Kund glacial lake, located at the foot of the Manaslu glacier. The easy walk to Kermo Manan, with its very long mani wall, leads to an alpine-style valley that gently rises towards a typical Tibetan village. After crossing a small bridge, a short but steep climb brings you to the most beautiful village on the tour: Samdo, with its population of 200 inhabitants. Tibet is easily accessible via Lajing Banjyang, and the people of Samdo, who are of Tibetan origin, still regularly engage in trade with families and grandparents living in Tibet. This superb and welcoming village is an ideal place to discover and rest..

Day 38: Samdo - Dharamshala (4,460m)

We set out from Samdo and follow the old trade route toward Tibet. After crossing a bridge, we ascend through the remnants of Larkya Bazaar, a once-thriving trade market. As we climb for three hours past glaciers, the panoramic views become increasingly stunning. Our destination is the campsite at Dharamsala, the high camp for the Larkya La pass. Here, we take a lunch break and savor the breathtaking vistas. The altitude and cold can be intense, so we suggest taking it easy in the afternoon and staying warm. We will have an early dinner to prepare for our journey over the Larkya pass tomorrow.

Day 39: Cross Larkya La Pass (5,106m). Trek to Bhimtang (3,590m)

After ascending from Dharamshala, we arrive at the ablation valley on the north side of the Larkya Glacier. Here, we can see Cho Danda and Larkya-La. We traverse the glacier's moraines, often through snow, with a gradual climb that becomes steeper towards the pass. The journey to the summit should take around four hours. The view from the top is breathtaking, with a panoramic view of Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kangguru, and the massive Annapurna II. Both sides of the pass offer equally stunning views. After hanging Tibetan prayer flags, we embark on a steep and sometimes slippery descent to a trail along the glacier's moraines. We'll take a lunch break on smooth rocks below the pass before continuing our descent, which will take another three hours to reach our campsite. The rocky descent eventually leads us to Bhimtang, making the journey well worth it.

Day 40: Bhimtang - Dharapani (1943m).

On this chilly but beautiful morning, the sun hits the peaks around us long before we reach the campsite. Leaving the grazing fields of Bhimtang, we cross a boulder-strewn river and head down through open forests of brilliantly blooming rhododendron, past the Kharka below Bhimtang. We'll stop for lunch at a small tea house before continuing along the rocky riverbed and sliding hillsides to several small, green villages - a sign that we've reached lower altitudes. After a long but scenic day, we eventually reach the large village of Tilje, which has a mix of Manangis (of Tibetan descent) and Chettris (Hindus), resulting in unique architecture and culture, and a diverse cuisine including Dal Bhat, buckwheat dhiro, tsampa, and Tibetan salt-tea.

Day 41: By Jeep: Dharapani to Kathmandu

A long day awaits us, we will have to get up early!!! We will change our mode of transportation and board jeeps that will take us down the Marsyangdi gorges to the bustling town of Besisahar. From there, we will take a bus that will bring us directly to Kathmandu, crossing beautiful landscapes of terraced rice fields, with the snowy peaks of the Annapurnas and Manaslu in the background. We will arrive at the hotel in the evening and have our final group dinner.

Day 42: Expedition debriefing at Department of Tourism

There will be an expedition debriefing at the Department of Tourism.

Day 43: Free day in Kathmandu for self shopping and other activities

You have a free day to spend, shopping or relaxing in the hotel. In the evening, there will be a farewell dinner to celebrate the successful completion of the Manaslu Expedition, with a cultural dance performed by local dancers. If you want to extend your stay, please email for more details.

Day 44: Transfer to Kathmandu International airport for departure

As the day of departure arrives, you will receive assistance with your final preparations for travel. Our representative will accompany you to Tribhuvan International Airport three hours prior to my scheduled flight to ensure a stress-free departure. Safe travels!

Cost & Dates

The cost of the Manaslu Expedition 2024 mentioned on our website is for a group joining. However, we also offer the option of a private trip depending on the group size, with a minimum of two people, upon your request. If you prefer to undertake this expedition alone or with your friends, family, or colleagues in a private group, please do not hesitate to contact us. We will organize a private Manaslu Expedition for you, catering to your preferred dates and any requests you may have.

  • The trip cost depends on the size of the group.
  • The type of hotel accommodations and the client's budget also have an impact on the cost.
  • The trekking itinerary can be customized according to your specific requirements and time constraints.
  • If you wish to add extra services to your expedition, we can adjust the price based on mutual understanding.
  • Additional services like an IFMGA guide, an extra dedicated Sherpa, and oxygen also have an impact on the price.
Trip Dates Trip Cost Status Inquiry
Sep 1 to 20 Oct, 2024 USD USD 17,500.00 Per Person Available Inquiry

Cost Includes:

  • Airport pick up and drop off on a private vehicle.
  • Welcome dinner at authentic and typical Nepalese cuisine
  • 5 Nights Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu a twin sharing a room on BB plan
  • One-day full sightseeing in Kathmandu valley with English-speaking City Tour Guide.
  • Private land Transportation: Kathmandu to Barpak and Dharapani to Kathmandu
  • Trek on lodge from Barpak to Base camp and Base camp to Dharapani. Food for Base camp during the Expedition period
  • Climbing Permit fee for Mt. Manaslu Expedition
  • Special permit for the Manaslu region
  • Manaslu Conservation Area Project (MCAP) and Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) entrance fees
  • Porterage of member's personal climbing equipment Kathmandu-Barpak-Base Camp-Kathmandu (max 60 Kg per person).
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper
  • Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew, and flight tickets
  • 1:1 climbing Sherpa
  • 1 tent for 2 people for the Expedition
  • High altitude tents for all members and climbing Sherpas.
  • All food and fuel for Base camp and higher camps during the expedition. Services of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp and Camp 2.
  • CE-certified oxygen cylinders (6 x 4.3 lbs. per member) with British top-out mask and regulator.
  • Common climbing equipment (necessary rope, ice bars, ice screws, etc.
  • Solar panel at Base Camp for charging mobile phones, laptops, and digital cameras.
  • Emergency Oxygen -Mask and regulator, Satellite Phone (call basis), Gas heater, and Generator.
  • Insurance and Helicopter rescue for Nepalese expedition crew.
  • Agency service charge.

Trip FAQ

Here are some frequently asked questions (FAQs) regarding the Mt. Manaslu expedition

 

What is the altitude of Mt. Manaslu?

Mt. Manaslu is the eighth-highest mountain in the world, with an elevation of 8,163 meters (26,781 ft).

 

Do I need to have prior high-altitude climbing experience to climb Mt. Manaslu?

Yes, it is recommended that you have prior high-altitude climbing experience before attempting to climb Mt. Manaslu. You should have experience climbing peaks above 6,000 meters and should be comfortable using mountaineering equipment like ropes, crampons, and ice axes.

 

Do I need a permit to climb Mt. Manaslu?

Yes, you need a climbing permit from the Nepalese government to climb Mt. Manaslu. The permit fee varies depending on the season and the number of climbers in the group.

 

What is the best time to climb Mt. Manaslu?

The best time to climb Mt. Manaslu is during the autumn season (September to November) and the spring season (March to May).

 

How long does it take to climb Mt. Manaslu?

The duration of the climb varies depending on the expedition and the acclimatization schedule, but it typically takes around 4-6 weeks to complete the climb.

 

What type of equipment do I need for the climb?

You will need specialized mountaineering equipment, including crampons, an ice axe, ropes, and other gear necessary for high-altitude climbing.

 

What is the success rate of climbing Mt. Manaslu?

The success rate of climbing Mt. Manaslu is around 50–60%, depending on the weather, the level of experience of the climbers, and other factors.

 

What is the difficulty level of climbing Mt. Manaslu?

Climbing Mt. Manaslu is considered to be a technically challenging expedition and requires a high level of physical fitness and mountaineering skills.

 

What is the best season to climb Mt. Manaslu?

The best seasons to climb Mt. Manaslu are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November).

 

What type of gear and equipment do I need for the climb?

You will need specialized mountaineering equipment, including high-altitude clothing, mountaineering boots, crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and other gear necessary for high-altitude climbing.

 

What is the success rate of climbing Mt. Manaslu?

The success rate of climbing Mt. Manaslu is around 50–60%, depending on the weather, the level of experience of the climbers, and other factors.

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